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The advent of Haute Couture 2024

  • Writer: Anna-louise Aitken
    Anna-louise Aitken
  • Jan 23, 2024
  • 2 min read

Vogue announced in an article that "haute couture is the last handmade bastion of fashion that still exists", which as an overriding statement confirms the exclusivity and creativity aligned with this craft, unlike no other.


Up first, as always. Schiaparelli.


Taking to the HC SS24 (Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024) catwalk, Schiaparelli opened as per tradition, and it was beautifully executed. With nodes of contemporary elements belonging to this technologically advanced world, as well Roseberry's Texan roots, it was subtlety which outweighed the maximal efforts for me.


As with most, I like to perceive situations with motion to indulge in the meaning behind what is portrayed before my eyes.


Look 15 of this runway was effortlessly seamless, yet taking a closer look, a white pencil is purposefully weaved between the shirt collar, to perhaps acknowledge that Haute Couture exists as the only handmade bastion of fashion remaining. From an illustrative POV, the white collar is being held in shape by an object enabling creativity, smart. I mention 'white collar' with indeed, an awareness and reference to those bodies earning a monstrous salary, funny that, yet creativity involves getting your hands dirty every once in a while ... ha ha ha.


Look 15

Now this is clever.


The motherboard dress. It is in fact the motherboard which acts as the tech backbone in every computer, and without one, none of the internal components can function. With full exposé, the catwalk spectators can see the inner workings of an appliance used everyday by millions of people. More specifically, the artefacts woven throughout belong to an era pre-2007, Roseberry uttered that "now, the technology I grew up with is so antiquated that it’s almost as difficult to source as certain vintage fabrics and embellishments" ... alluding to the exclusivity of haute couture fashion, and the rarity of each couture garment piece.


Motherboard Dress
Look 7

"The result are a series of profiles both familiar and not — part human, part something else. And, therefore, totally Schiaparelli" - Daniel Roseberry.




Displayed above are my four favourite looks from this runway. The rounded edges allow spectators to perceive each look from a different angle, creating an experience up for individual speculation, encouraging each to draw differing conclusions. Much like the nature of our human interactions today, everyone enjoys bringing their own view to the table, raising them on a slight pedestal, well, here are four ways Schiaparelli delivered exactly that. I'd love to know how you view these looks.


Roseberry's Schiaparelli serves undeniable creativity whilst taking the catwalk, merging both traditional nodes with contemporary nuances, delivering just what it takes to be a house held name in haute couture fashion.


"Because what differentiates us as humans is our memories. I think of this as in music—like in an album where you have all these different references being mixed together. And then the composite is something that feels really original, a handwriting that feels unique to the house. But if you go inside the looks, it’s really like a treasure trove of personal references mixed with the past."


This has been my first deep dive in to a haute couture show, I hope you enjoyed.


Not Pink x


 
 
 

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